Before Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto unveiled their Spring/Summer 2024 show at Milan Fashion Week, chatter was bouncing off the walls, echoing how fantastic the collection was going to be. This begged the question: can JORDANLUCA SS24 be even better than its stellar Fall/Winter 2023 presentation?
Somehow, the London-based duo didn’t just start over – they showed a fully realized, completely conceptualized and utterly definitive representation of what JORDANLUCA is and who it speaks to.
For SS24, the creative duo took inspiration from humble yet powerful lipstick. The classic shade of red has connotations of power and performance, but also (according to the brand), “blood, life, murder, sex and death”. These were the themes of the collection, as JORDANLUCA introduced its first full line of womenswear alongside unmistakable masculine identities that will continue to define the brand for years to come.
It was self-referential, but elevated. Familiar, yet totally refreshing. Never one to take risks, the designers opened their show with track pants adorned with lace bras on top. Estonian rapper Tommy Cash also walked the runway in two looks, offering a haunted and ethereal aesthetic that matched the attitude of his cropped horizontal-zip shorts and loose silk shirt, as if he had just left the club. XXX night.
While it’s backless season (à la Fendi and the like), JORDANLUCA has delivered their version of the women’s fashion staple transformed into a men’s summer number. Here, the top shone with sparkling fabrics and pleats, all subverted by the upturned and reversed neck hole attached to the lower part of the garment.
Hints of womenswear were injected heavily into menswear, as jeans were low rise and belted with a cowboy buckle and scoop necklines scooped deep into the chest over form-fitting knitted sweaters.
However, this was also contrasted by traditions: pleated trousers, western boots, sweater vests with overly revealing armholes, and lace were used consistently. Yet even here there was a twist, as racy silk and lace were used to make tiny little harnesses sitting on sleeveless shirts wearing oversized collars, and sheer women’s clothing sets decorated with floral patterns were contrasted by the use of latex suffocating arms.
JORDANLUCA is known for playing with fetishes and perversities. For SS24, it was much more adult and informed, and for that, the brand really found its nuance. Here’s what Bowen and Marchetto had to say about the collection itself:
Hypebeast: Let’s get one thing straight: why did you close on “hope is a dangerous thing for a woman like me, but I have it.” by Lana Del Rey?
Jordan Bowen: Luca played me the Lana Del Rey song, he said, “What do you think?”
Luca Marchetto: I love that the song tells the story of this woman and, in a way, hope is dangerous for her. It’s really fascinating.
It’s related to this collection because there’s a lot of philosophy in the collection. It is about the perspective of life. What we do with the brand looks at the present; where can it lead?
While the future was clear, there were also plenty of self-references.
JB: It was important for us to do that. We now have women’s clothing (we’ve explored that before…) but that’s completely different. A different way of thinking, of designing. We had to go back to what we had established and we stuck to it. It’s really tight and concise, with the colors and the way things came together. So you can get a true step-by-step idea of the journey of colors, cuts, browns, blacks. It’s really fluid.
And as usual, you explored many cultural references. What came to mind for SS24?
LM: For the woman, we took the kilt. [We made] kilt jackets, kilt skirts, kilt dresses.
There were also references in the leather jacket with the roses. It was dark.
We want to emphasize what JORDANLUCA is. It’s really important to us. We have leftovers but these are things that we like, that we recognize.
JB: I’ve always wanted to do a bit of women’s fashion. Still wondering what it would look like as menswear, womenswear complete from head to toe…what does it mean to do both of those things all the way?
Oh, and Tommy Cash. How did you get involved?
Tommy Cash: Surprise!