Positive start to the season at Pitti Uomo

Florence shines for the new season. Despite the ongoing challenges that continue to plague the fashion industry, the mood at the Pitti Uomo menswear show was overwhelmingly positive.

The industry is happy to finally meet again. Pitti Uomo is particularly important as an international platform, according to Windsor general manager Jan Mangold, who again exhibited at Pitti Uomo with the clothing supplier after attending last season.

Pitti Uomo 104’s motto was “Pitti Games” and some exhibitors took advantage of this approach, incorporating playful elements into their approach, including a ball pool and basketball court.

Credits: Visitor en route to the Pitti Uomo knife halls. Photo: AKAstudio-Collective

“The mood is very strong. People were looking for a platform to exchange ideas. But that’s actually also what everyone here reflects to us,” said Benny Jandl, sales director at the German supplier of Drykorn clothing. “We want to get back to conversations, we want to meet physically and exchange ideas and for that a living room is not replaceable. It will become even more important in the next few years.”

According to the organizer of the show, Pitti Immagine, 825 exhibitors and approximately 12,000 visitors – more than 40% of whom were foreigners – were present at the current edition. Compared to the summer 2022 edition, there were around 20% more international buyers and 5% more Italian buyers this week. Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine, said these figures indicate the recovery of the fair after the pandemic and that Pitti Uomo is gradually returning to pre-crisis levels.

New arrivals

This season also saw the return of some brands like Drykorn and Scotch & Soda and the debut of others.

Drykorn is back at Pitti this season. Photo: AKAstudio-Collective

On Tuesday, South African menswear brand Chulaap held a small presentation, with designer Chu Suwannapha putting together and styling the looks as if it were a photoshoot. Suwannapha was happy to be there and received a lot of positive feedback, he reported.

Chulaap auf der Pitt Uomoi. Photo: Vanni Bassetti

Tobias Schellenberger, owner of German trouser specialist Rossi, was also delighted with his debut at the show and plans to return next season. Rossi seemed to inspire an international audience with his looks and so reps were in talks with various buyers, even from Japan.

Everton McDougall traveled from Toronto to present his Haus by Everton brand slippers to an international audience. It was only the brand’s second collection, where models with intense colors like purple, colorful patterns and thick soles stood out particularly.

Sport meets fashion

Sportswear continues to have the wind in its sails and is also becoming more and more fashionable.

Swimwear brand Arena collaborated with Woolmark for merino wool swimwear while showing off some pieces worn outside the pool, including t-shirts, sweaters and vests. Fashion for cycling enthusiasts, meanwhile, was offered by the PH Apparel brand, which now offers styles for casual cycling around town as well as off-the-bike.

The Ecoalf stand. Image: Pitti Immagine Uomo

However, sportswear brands aren’t the only ones that have dabbled in the category – apparel suppliers have also experimented in the sports sector. The ecological brand Ecoalf presented its new line for yoga, cycling, running and surfing. Italian brand Herno, who are FC Barcelona’s formal wear supplier for the 2024/25 season, have incorporated headbands into some looks. Windsor presented its first Summer Wool swimsuit, created in collaboration with producer Reda Active.

The Windsor stand at Pitti Uomo. Image: AKAstudio-Collective

From the American dream to the open sea: trends at Pitti

The brands have not only focused on swimwear, but have also drawn inspiration from the sea. Of course, nautical styles with blue striped shirts and boat shoes, as seen at Italian brand Paul Shark , always play an important role in summer for beach vacation. The brands also dreamed of the high seas and the adventures of sailors. The Italian brand Germano presented trousers with a boat and anchor print. Chulaap also put ships on pieces like suits, shirts, and pants. The brand’s entire collection revolved around the sea and included a fish-shaped bag, an octopus belt and large feathered hats reminiscent of pirates.

Image: Fish, octopus and pirates in Chulaap. Credits: Vanni Bassetti

The accessory of the season is the scarf. Whether it’s a classic look with a suit like Walker Slater, a playful version like the colorful prints with chili peppers and lavender from Petronius1926, or a casual streetwear look with a loose shirt, basketball cap and jeans at Karl Kani, it can be used anywhere. Additionally, retro looks with loose knit shirts like at Drykorn and Italian brand Cruciani were also popular.

This season, Pitti Uomo has once again delighted with a guest designer as well as a special show. Italian fashion house Fendi presented its men’s collection at its new factory in Tuscany and Eli Russel’s American brand ERL presented a shimmering silver-grey collection on a neon green catwalk, with looks reminiscent of the Statue of Liberty in New York and tall hats like those of “the ‘Uncle Tom’.

Eli Russel Linnetz as guest designer at Pitti. Photo: Vanni Bassetti

This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.DE. Translation and editing by: Rachel Douglass.

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