It’s no secret that a fresh take on luxury was present at the Fall/Winter 2023 runways, from minimalist takes to wearable staples. It is these qualities, in fact, that Net-a-Porter has let guide its buying window for the season, as it seeks to more specifically address its so-called “extremely important people” (EIPs), a group that makes up 3 percent of its consumer base yet contributes 40 percent of its sales.
In order to develop this sector and ensure that this group of “hardy” consumers invest more in their wardrobe, Net-a-Porter’s marketing director, Libby Page, said she will increase her assortment, expand her loyalty program and expand its circularity offer. While all of these aspects need to be considered, the platform expanded its efforts to define its product offering in a seasonal AW23 trending presentation hosted by Page, who spoke about how Net-a-Porter s engages with EIPs.
FashionUnited took a closer look at Net-a-Porter’s defining trends for Fall/Winter 2023 and what they could mean for the seasons to come.
Portable and minimalist
Much of Page’s attention was centered on a consistent theme of “modern luxury,” which she said had been present both on the runway and in real life, whether media reports on “quiet luxury,” the final season of HBO’s Succession or the closely watched Gwenyth Paltrow trial. Page added: “This mood has peaked in consumerism and shows no signs of slowing down for us. Although I have to say this is not a trend or a new wave, it is more of a buying mindset that our pioneer EIPs have had since SS23.
For the upcoming season, Page expanded on that observation in what she dubbed the “wearable necessities” trend, with white shirts, black coats and tank tops showcasing the epitome of luxury for AW23. While some established brands have fanned the flames of this trend, it’s newer brands that have really made waves, including Tove, which debuted in London. Similarly, Page’s “modern minimalism” trend also tackled sleek fashion, but with references to eras past. She added: “Devoid of thrift, modern minimalism gave our favorite decade, the 90s, a cool, architectural and elevated makeover. The silhouettes, monochromatic color palette and hardware details were the talk of the town, transforming ’90s inspirations and making them more modern than ever.
Effortless evening wear
Like the previous trend, Page also noted a distinct, effortless essence in evening wear, as many designers used fashion weeks to showcase a fresh take on the category. Speaking about it, Page said: “In keeping with the simplistic tone of the season, we’ve seen a continued, elegant approach to evening wear on the runway and that’s already translating to the red carpets where stylists and celebrities took a much more low-key approach. The likes of Ann Demeulemeester and Loewe each showed flowing silky dresses with simple silhouettes, forming what Page said was a form of “old school Hollywood glamour.” She added: “The move from runway to red carpet has never been faster, it’s become prime marketing real estate and designers who aren’t yet known for evening wear are recognizing the opportunity.”
Costume and solid details
A notable Page observation was that over the course of the fashion season, 13 different designers opened their runways with their own interpretations of a black suit and white shirt, setting the tone for couture’s return to fashion. podiums. She continued: “These were traditional suits, inspired by men’s tailoring – neat, precise cuts paired with black tie accessories. The looks resembled those of Savile Row and had an extremely androgynous feel, promoting the idea of gender neutrality. Page also said she expected the trend to appeal to both Net-a-Porter and Mr Porter customers, leading to more cross-buys. “That vibe felt like a powerful nod to acceptance of women taking inspiration from the male wardrobe,” she added.
Detailing was also an imperative element of the season, as evidenced by the use of blankets, cinched waists, bottoms and turtlenecks, among others. A stark departure from the laid-back trends mentioned earlier, Page said, “This season may have been a season of simplicity, but it’s the attention to detail that has the big impact. The designers gave us some cool styling details and accessories to really bring their collections to life and show us new ways to wear these wardrobe staples.
At Net-a-Porter, the platform hopes to help shoppers embrace this trend with upcoming features on its app, Digital Wardrobe. Through the service, customers will be able to use an outfit creator, allowing them to swipe and discover new pieces and learn how to style them with previous purchases. “Once again, we’re showing our clients how to do more with less,” Page concluded.