SPFW SS24 or fashion as a reflection of contemporary issues

The 55th edition of SPFW – São Paulo Fashion Week – took place from May 25 to May 28, at three different locations in Brazil. On May 22, designer João Pimenta hosted the pre-opening of the show, presenting a commemorative collection of his 20 years of work, during a fashion show at the Teatro Municipal de São Paulo, in downtown São Paulo. In total, there were 31 live shows and 10 fashion films.

The diversity of models, already consolidated since the last edition, has extended to the regional diversity of brands, bringing in newcomers from different parts of the country. There were new brands from the state of Ceará in the northeast (Marina Bitu and David Lee), from the state of Bahia, also located in the northeast (Gefferson Vila Nova) and from the city of Rio de Janeiro (The Paradise), as well as the São Paulo-based studio Forca.

The event, as a whole, aims to strengthen fashion as a platform for social causes, such as inclusion and diversity. It should be remembered that the creation accelerator Cria Costura, presented an exhibition instead of the Komplexo Tempo event, with pieces produced during the third edition of the program, held in Brasilândia and Cidade Tiradentes. The program, created by INMODE – National Institute of Fashion, Design and Creative Economy, and the Municipal Secretariat of Economic Development and Labor, identifies and promotes talent, transforming technical sewing skills into valuable skills added.

On the catwalks of this edition, the public saw the reflection of the trends presented in the previous season – laminated materials, sequins, comfortable modeling, as well as vibrant shades, much more used now, forming a rainbow palette, which alludes to LGBTQIA+ issues. Brown and its undertones came to settle, offering an earthy and cozy atmosphere. It was a sort of continuation of the presentations of the shows during the FW23 edition and of the issues raised previously, showing that fashion reflects and allows discussion of social and political concerns and issues.

Santa Resistência, photo: Zé Takahashi/Agência Fotosite

Paradise, photo: Marcelo Soubhia/Agência Fotosite

Isaac Silva, photo: Marcelo Soubhia/Agência Fotosite

Gefferson Vila Nova, photo: Gabriel Cappelletti

Dendezeiro, photo: Marcelo Soubhia/Agência Fotosite

Thear, photo: Zé Takahashi/Agência Fotosite

Igor Dadona, photo: Marcelo Soubhia/Agência Fotosite

Colors and prints

Vibrant colors disrupt the monotonous neutral black and white that appears on virtually every catwalk. Bright red emerged as a big hit at Santa Resistencia and multicolored prints brought the runways to life at Meninos Rei, The Paradise and Isaac Silva. At Igor Dadona there was a plethora of flowers with round shapes. Almost every brand presented monochromatic looks, like Gefferson Vila Nova. Earth tones outlined Dendezeiro’s pieces and unfolded into Thear’s beige.

Walério Araújo, photo: Zé Takahashi/Agência Fotosite

Patricia Viera, photo: Marcelo Soubhia/Agência Fotosite

Apartment 03, photo: Zé Takahashi/Agência Fotosite

Sequins and laminated materials

Reinforcing the creations presented during the previous season, sequins and laminated materials remain very present in the SPFW collections. Designer Walério Araújo, who paid homage to former Brazilian model and presenter Elke Maravilha, used sequins in a variety of ways: from subtle pastel sequins to vibrant purple looks. In addition, we saw laminated leather, which Patricia Viera worked as a patchwork on canvas. Apartamento 03 featured rolled leather in jackets and pleated skirts. The fringes of João Pimenta, in tubes brought a discreet shine, as well as the embroidery on lace.

LED, photo: Zé Takahashi/Agência Fotosite

João Pimenta, photo: Marcelo Soubhia/Agência Fotosite

Minisis, photo: Zé Takahashi/Agência Fotosite

Marina Bitu, photo: Gustavo Scatena/Agência Fotosite

Transparencies and ruffles

Transparencies appeared more subtly with Fernanda Yamamoto, and more explicitly with LED. João Pimenta dared to bring the transparency of embroidered white lace into masculine territory. Ruffles came in various shapes, both horizontal and vertical. They were present at Minisis and Marina Bitu, as well as other brands.

Fernanda Yamamoto, photo: Gustavo Scatena/Agência Fotosite

Foz, photo Felipe Russo

Greg Joey, photo: Zé Takahashi/Agência Fotosite

Rafael Caetano, photo: Zé Takahashi/Agência Fotosite

Forca Studio, photo: Zé Takahashi/Agência Fotosite

Comfortable modeling and wide lines

Even in a more luxurious way, as evidenced by Fernanda Yamamoto, comfort appears in various forms. At newcomer Foz, this happens with a basic trouser and blouse look, or even in the wide range of dresses. At Greg Joey, men and women, in overalls and pants and shirt. Rafael Caetano has created comfort through light fabrics and ample modelling. Forca Studio in t-shirt, shorts and tailored trousers.

Ponto Firme, photo: Marcelo Soubhia/Agência Fotosite

David Lee, photo: Marcelo Soubhia/Agência Fotosite

Weider Silverio, photo: Zé Takahashi/Agência Fotosite

The value of handmade

Handmade craftsmanship is always in high demand, in a constant upward trend. Ponto Firme has brought a whole collection in crochet, now with the insertion of more sophisticated technological materials. Another designer who has used crochet, in a stylish way, in the form of a total look, is newcomer David Lee. Fuxico, the ancient art of using fabric cutouts, has been used beautifully by Weider Silverio. And even in the skirt mentioned above, by Dendezeiro, one can see evidence of craftsmanship.

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